two amys

In guest on January 19, 2010 at 2:31 pm

our intrepid restaurant reviewer returns! i’m secretly hoping we can make him a regular feature here at icf. you like restaurant reviews, don’t you? this also happens to be one of my favorite washington restaurants.

two amys
3715 macomb street nw, washington dc

verdict: four stars

many places lay claim to the invention of pizza. new haven, connecticut, is one example; chicago, illinois, another. italy’s bay of naples probably has a better claim than most, and may have started spinning the dough somewhere between magna graecia and the rise of the eternal city. in fact, there is a reference to pizza in the aeneid, when iulus chides his father for taking time out from the founding of rome to pop out to papa john’s, aka the palace of king latinus, and eat the thin crusts on which the food is served. or, as vergil would have it: ‘’heus, etiam mensas consumimus?’ (what! we’re even eating the platters now?)

two amys, the pizza restaurant across wisconsin avenue from the national cathedral, takes its production of authentic neopolitan pizza very seriously. the owners use the ingredients and methods of preparation as laid down by the italian government with their denominazione di origine controllata. dough is prepared with soft-grain flour, fresh yeast, water, and sea salt. plum tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, extra-virgin olive oil and fresh basil or dried oregano may be used for the toppings. a number of quasi-fascistic regulations govern what may or may not go on or into a given type of pizza. for example, pizza marinara is the only pizza on which fresh garlic may be used. such rigidity is both poison and cure. the lack of room for innovation might be considered stifling, but the consistency of quality in the restaurant’s offerings have made it a firm favorite of the dc dining circuit. it’s rare to find the restaurant quiet. fortunately there is an adjacent bar area in which to await your seats.

once we had obtained a table, service was brisk and the food arrived speedily. pink pepper, available on each table, helped to pique the pizzas’ flavours, of which many are subtly different. the margherita is available in classic style or with extra cherry tomatoes. the restaurant’s eponymously named pizza has cow’s rather than buffalo’s mozzarella. all were highly palatable. the santa brigida came with the classic ingredients plus rocket, or arugula as the president would have it. for the more adventurous, the vongole has a dry base covered by cockles, capers, mature grana cheese, and garlic. this was a step too far for my dining partner’s palate. we better enjoyed the abruzzese with its delicious polpettine. the variety of stuffed pizze, and the array of extra toppings seem to provide ample opportunity for personal customization. as in italian cuisine generally, the dessert options constituted a weak rearguard, excepting, of course, the ice cream. the wine list is fine, with the grotta del sole the local fizzy favorite.

in the round, two amy’s success speaks for itself. it’s always fun to eat somewhere full of contented consumers, and if you find much of modern pizza too cheesily oleaginous, this may just be the perfect antidote.

  1. mmm, what a wonderful review. I think I shall go there tomorrow!

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